Laws, but I damn well love my hometown. And why not?
Say a whole busload of the most disreputable Carnie folk slammed at great speed into the National Museum of American History just as they’d convened their biggest black tie gala stuffed shirt capital campaign event ever, and you had to take the resulting mess and magically transform it into a geographical destination. The result might be something like Salem, Massachusetts.
Rich in Maritime history, home to Nathaniel Hawthorne, the very first place in North America to be visited by an Elephant, birthplace of Parker Brother’s Games; all regularly eclipsed by a very brief flirtation with Witch Hysteria followed by the execution of sixteen people based on spectral evidence. Small peanuts compared to Europe where you could roast marshmallows at an autodafe on every street corner for most of a century.
It’s not so much the obsessive focus on Salem’s infamous witchcraft trials that fascinates me. I get that. It’s the amazing Amazonian rain forest of swell, lurid, tawdry, crap that grew from the single seed of the Salem Witch trials. It’s the way that tendrils of that forest weave their way into and around ever single aspect of my Historic town, squeezing eccentric old money Yankees cheek to jowl with faux velvet wrapped fatties in suede pirate boots, direct descendants of Mayflower Puritans forced to endure endless traffic jams with tour buses full of sweaty Harry Potter enthusiasts, a vast, frequently involuntary commingling of college professors with sad ersatz vampires that results in a town with a school called ‘Witchcraft Heights’ a bronze statue of Elizabeth Montgomery in a public park, attempts to create zoning laws restricting the number of haunted house attractions within the downtown shopping district... is there anywhere else in the United States of America where impossibly complicated and stultifyingly tedious briefs have been written revolving around the exact legal definition of the word ‘Haunted’?
Where else could you comparison shop for the best price on a magic wand or dried herbs for various Wiccan folderol best left undescribed while waiting your turn to tour a Qing Dynasty merchants house brought piece by piece from Southeastern China and reassembled, every roofing tile, every bamboo water gutter in place just spitting distance from an upscale Tattoo parlor, a CVS and a hygienically questionable fried dough cart?
And why, exactly? Do themed tourist attractions generally rise up on the site of past atrocities? And what possible relationship exists between modern practitioners of ‘Wicca’ and the 16 miserable, hapless, puritans strung up here (except for Giles Corey who was pressed to death during an enhanced interrogation) who just weeks before had been joylessly sitting through twelve hour sermons on the evils of dancing and colored clothes? My town is magnificent not for it’s deep history or it’s ludicrous capering, but for the salty sweet palate confounding combination of both, that achieves its peak annually during the Halloween Season.
Salem, Massachusetts. Witch City. My damn stomping grounds from which I shall be firing off the irregular dispatch for the next two months.
Adder (Guest) on 09/11/2008 11:57 am
It's not so surprising, really. I'm actually more surprised that you don't find more towns turned into living carnivals of hilarity, considering all the crazy shit that went undocumented over the years.
nirvana_infinity on 09/11/2008 12:07 pm
A town near me has a 4-day annual celebration in the fall that includes a giant flea market/street fair, live music, and drunken brawls. The whole event stems from people way back in the day making the long trip to the big city to see the hangings. Booths selling food were eventually set up, and year by year it grew into a more elaborate network of crap for sale. I still like to drive by the madness in October, and smile to myself as I think about the brainless rednecks sifting through rebel flag t-shirts, who would probably still be all for a good old fashioned lynching.
MC1977 (Guest) on 09/11/2008 12:39 pm
I live and work in Salem and October sucks for us who happen to live here 12 months a year. I have to saw that it really is a sight to see though, just for the sheer insane-ness of it all.
MC1977 (Guest) on 09/11/2008 12:40 pm
I meant say, not saw. Where is my mind??
James (Guest) on 09/11/2008 1:24 pm
Sorry to be off topic, but thought you'd love this one, fans of All-Star Batman & Robin that we are. I'm sure you were wondering as to why the latest issue wasn't out yesterday, when it was supposed to be. Wellllllll.....
http://blog.wired.com/underwire/2008/09/frank-millers-b.html
http://www.g4tv.com/thefeed/blog/post/689123/Batman_Comic_Pulled_For_Language.html
Geminate on 09/11/2008 6:07 pm
Um, hippies.
That's all I have to say.
Turrel (Guest) on 09/11/2008 6:18 pm
Ah, Salem... never been there yet, which is a shame, since I live only like an hour south.
Dear Max, being something of a photographer, would you suggest anything specific to look for upon my first visit that stands out? (or anything particularly juicy that's abandoned, as well?)
Fear N Loathing on 09/11/2008 6:29 pm
I used to buy all my weed there when I was in College. Salem used to have the best herb. Had a bunch of freakazoid girlfriends there too... Halloween parties to die for too.
Bucket (Guest) on 09/11/2008 9:04 pm
I live in MA too and visited Salem on the obligatory field trip and one year my friends and I went a few nights before Halloween. Heard that there's a stabbing there every Halloween night...Whether or not its a ritual stabbing I don't know.
Ferrit on 09/11/2008 9:21 pm
Yeah. Salem MA- Oct 1 - Oct 31. Wonderful* to drive through even if you're only going a couple of miles -better have an hour or 2 to spare. Yay.
*absolute living hell
Dungeonbrownies on 09/11/2008 10:51 pm
interesting, so thats where youre from.
that explains alot. kind of.
Keith (Guest) on 09/11/2008 11:01 pm
There may be a ritual stabbing every year but it has nothing to do with tourists- just the locals who all take part in stabbing the infant born closest to the autumn equinox. I think it's to ensure a good winter.
Ron (Guest) on 09/12/2008 12:25 am
I love Salem! In fact I'll be there for about a week in October. Maybe I'll run into you there.
EchoCharlie on 09/12/2008 5:28 am
Like driving a car at speed in the rain of wank you've slid over the line, crashed through the fence and slid into, "Thesaurus Ponce" territory...
Tuned out when you used the word, "autodafe".
alittlebirdytoldmeso on 09/12/2008 8:43 am
I lived in Salem for a year. And yes, during the months long celebration of Halloween you could see all sorts scurry out from the woodwork to tromp around in their black capes and top hats. But... my absolute favorite was an out-of-shape 50-year-old dude dressed in a pink leotard and tutu with dyed pink high tops dragging around his mortified wife and daughter that I caught sight of in the Derby Street Dunkin' Donuts in mid-October walking around as if finally free to be himself.
jason saunders (Guest) on 09/12/2008 1:19 pm
i have an idea for your next article.....the return of DOMO-KUN! that's right,new domo-kun halloween products are at target.INSTANT ARTICLE! especially taste-testing some of the domo-themed candies. blecch!
JakeOfAllTrades on 09/13/2008 7:58 am
I'm sure Salem is a nice place, but from what I've heard from you about Wiccan Crazies I'd rather go to Providence to see where Lovecraft made his name in unfathomable horrors.
Simon Love on 09/13/2008 11:20 am
A crazed writer moves to Salem, Massachusetts with his wife and daughter, after being laid off due to restructuration.
Seriously, Max...Go hang out at the video rental and read the back of the boxes of the shittiest-looking movie cases on the shelves. Do you not see where this all leads???
Frostor (Guest) on 09/13/2008 3:49 pm
I've spent a great deal of time in Salem, and I plan to be there this Halloween as well. It's one of my favorite cities. I never had to deal with the poor driving conditions, because I've always commuted there by train. I kind of wish it was like it is in October year-round, as after that it starts to get pretty boring and somewhat depressing.
Turrel (Guest) on 09/13/2008 9:01 pm
Providence is alright, Jake, but it's nothing too special. I've lived in the area for twenty years, trust me. If you're more than two hours away, don't bother.
RandiLu on 09/20/2008 1:05 am
I'm from MA as well. I camped in Salem in the middle of the SUMMER and there were still people dressed up all over town. It's a nice town, and i went to a really great breakfast place, but it's just a wee little too much
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